Winter's Agony...

Just because it is winter, doesn't mean there hasn't been sending. There have been many-a-day since my last post that I have been out at the cliff climbing. I suppose it would be appropriate to do some updating. Probably the proudest sends I have had recently have been the Andrew's Problem (V4), Black Boulder Problem (V5) and Winter's Agony (V6). All three sends came within rapid fire of each other -- Andrew's and the Black Boulder came in the same week, and Winter's Agony came the week after that.

The weather this winter has been strange. Today, for instance, it was like 60 degrees, but for the rest of the week it is supposed to be in the 30s. That said, the climbing has been sporadic. One day it will be 40 degrees and sunny -- great climbing weather -- and then next it will be 34 and raining. One must be extremely opportunistic to climb this winter. Take what you can get, and be happy with it.

Andrew's problem is on the same boulder as the Buddha (which will be a serious summer project this year). There is a long traverse in the begining, but I skipped that part, as it just drains some energy, and it isn't particularly hard. The start then, is a jump up to a hugu horizontal hold, which you then heel hook at the same time. (Yeah, that's right, three points of contact all on the same hold.) Then you move off left onto these small sloping crimps. Then, big move to the top, and your in. I'd like to just add that Ian onsighted this problem. No beta, no practicing it, just sending. Classic.

The Black Boulder Problem is a classic V5 that invloves lots of slapping and on greasy slopey holds. You start with a heel hook and a slap, then another heel and another slap, then a throw, balance yourself, far toe and move out right and up and out. I first tried the problem in the summer, and really couldn't do any of the moves. After practicing my slopers on some souther sandstone (stay tuned for more), I really started to put the problem together in early January. On the same day that I did Andrew, I sent the Black Problem too. Not too bad of a day. Three days later I went back and did the problem three times in a row with no falls.

Winter's Agony is a face with a jug for hand holds at the start, followed by three progessively worse crimps that are super reachy, and then a sloping side-pull that is miles away, and then one last reach to a jug. The crux is definitely throwing out to the side-pull. The crimp for your right hand is so sharp, and so tiny -- it's just positive enough, but you really have to grit down on it. When I sent the problem, I really had to bear down and pull hard on the crimp. I probably tried this problem less than 15 tries, and it went. That is pretty encouraging for next season.

I really can't wait for this snow to go away.

(Morocco in 48 days.)