A video

My buddy Chris shot some video on New Pair of Glasses...check it out.

Bearded Munchkin

The weather has continued to be amazing. Yesterday was absolutely beautiful. Rich and I hiked up to the C Chimney and did a new pitch!

When we got up there it was hot enough to go sun's-out-guns-out. So nice. We had previously put in the first pitch of this climb, and, having rapped over the crack, we had noticed some loose blocks and what-not. So Rich jugged up our fixed line and started pulling stuff out of the crack. A lot came out, but there is still some loose and hollow sounding stuff. So, with that in mind, we hiked up to the top of the cliff and through a top rope on it. And while the looseness is something to be concerned about, it isn't detrimental to the climb!

So what did we do next? We led the damn thing. Awesome. Really fun and delicate climbing at the loose section and then pumpy finger crack climbing. Really an awesome pitch of climbing.

Now there is a two pitch 5.10c that is 190 feet long. Five stars for sure.

Sunshine in November

So the weather has been really really really...really good the past few days. Like, it's unbelievable how nice it is outside. I think I'm going to try and keep my car running all the time so that I can contribute more to global warming. I like this extended climbing season.

I got out to the C Chimney cliff with my buddy Grant to do some cragging yesterday. I was driving up from New Paltz and got back to Wilmington around 11:30. I drove out to the parking lot and met up with Grant a little after that and we headed to the cliff. Grant had only seen Potter Mountain, so this we a cool little trip for him.

We got up there and I immediately took my (soaking wet) shirt off. Then Grant got on Bearded Munchkin which he crushed. Then we did Seeking Enlightenment which is also a good time. Last week when Colin and Joe were up there, Joe led Seeking and forgot his rack, which he realized 40 feet off the deck when he needed the placement. (Similar shenanigans have ensued at Never Never Land.) And when I led it, I did the same exact thing. Haha, oops. I ended up just skipping the gear and going to the anchors. It felt ok because I had the moves pretty wired, but I would imagine an onsight without gear would be exciting. Just cause there are bolts on a route, doesn't mean you don't need gear!

After that we scrambled up to the top of the cliff and rapped onto Jenga. That thing is hard! There was a bail biner on the third bolt when I got there, so I was excited about booty. But, after trying it a couple of times and getting totally shut down, that booty is still up there. The thing about Jenga is not that the moves are all that hard. It's the insecurity. Every move you make after you leave the ledge is delicate. You feel like you could slip off at any moment. It's a crack climb, but you can't really jam it and the gear is rattly and questionable. It's a slab, but the smears aren't that good. And you can never really relax. There are no breaks or rests. No moment to take a deep breath. It's probably 5.8 on top rope, but on lead it feels like 5.12, and after 5 different people have tried it, I'd say it's a tough one.

If anyone wants to try it, there is a bail biner up there, so go for it.

Bonus Day

It was another bonus day in November -- warm temps and sunshine in the Lost City.

Margaret and I started our day doing some roped climbing. We did a climb that I think is called Red Tail Hawk. It starts on top of a boulder, it's in the 5.10 range and it's to the right of Resistance. No matter its name, the route itself is pretty rad. The crux is right off the deck. High-steps and bad holds, balance and hope are required. After that you do some exciting moves up to some steepness and a final Gunks classic "I hope there's a jug over the lip" blind reach.

After that we switched to the boulders. We went over in search of I Am a Cage Fighting Sensation (V6). What a sweet problem. Start sitting on some ok holds. Make a big move up to a left facing sidepull. Core up, switch your feet and make another big move up to a decent crimp. A few more (easier) dynamic moves get you to the lip and top-out. I got it first try! Woo-hoo. It was so good I did it twice in a row.

Then we moved on to Funny Killer. I made some good progress on it. I finally succumbed to Andrew's superior beta, which was a big help. I got all the way from the start to the last big hard move to the lip. Even almost held it. Can't wait to go back and cruuuuuush it.

Back to the Gunks

I've been chasing the good weather recently. It's nice only working three days a week. It really enables weather chasing. Although, getting back down here was a bit harry -- lots of snow and ice and white out conditions going on. But now that I'm down here things are starting to look better.

Today I got out on some boulders in the morning with Pete and his buddy Chris. Did a few laps on the Lorax to warm up, and then went and tried The Million Dollar Problem. I've done the problem a bunch of times, but today I just couldn't seem to put it together. So, with that encouragement I hopped on New Pair of Glasses.

New Pair of Glasses has been my nemesis for quite some time. Trying it two summers ago I injured a tendon in my finger/hand. Then, earlier this year I got back on it and procured a huge flapper. And to top it all off, it's one of the few problems that I haven't done that Matt has done.

So the send was bitter sweet. Got it on the second try, letting out some Sharma yells along the way.

It was getting to be about lunch time at this point, so we all split up for a while. I went into town to get a bite to eat and to visit the shop. After that, back to the cliff for some roped fun.

I met back up with Pete and off we went to the Mac Wall. Pete had notions of MF prancing through his head, which I was totally down with. He crushed it. Still a MF-in' good climb.

After that I led Co-Ex, which is always a blast. I was pretty pumped by the time I got up to the crux. And then, after pulling it I was even more pumped. I thought I might peel off right at the top, but a thank-god foot appeared and life was good.

Weather looks good for tomorrow.

A New FA

So yesterday's blue bird-ness payed off. It was really a perfect day, anytime of year, but especially considering that it was November 7th. A bonus day really -- as is any November rock climbing day in the Adirondacks.

We went to the C Chimney Cliff with the intentions of retrieving our black static rope, which has hung there for most of the year. We failed at that. It's still there. But only because we have a new route we are working on! First pitch is done. Second pitch needs a little cleaning and trundling.

We called the climb Bearded Munchkin. The first pitch is 75 feet long with four bolts and is only slightly easier than Seeking Enlightenment so we ended up calling it 5.10b. You start in a kind of ramp/dihedral thingy. Work up this via some cool movement and then step right to pull this nice sized roof. Do some crimping, let your feet cut a little, reach real high and your through the crux. After that there are a few more technical dihedral moves and the "pitch" is over. I put "pitch" in quotations because really this should be a 180 foot single pitch. It's a straight line with no obvious stopping points. The only reason we stopped is because of rock quality.

All in all it was another great day of climbing at Silver Lake. Great success.

Blue Bird

It's currently 32 degrees outside. But's it's also blue bird. We aren't going to let the white peaks deter our ambitions of late fall (early winter?) rock climbing. Going for it.

Gunks Climbing

My southward excursion has been at least somewhat fruitful. I drove down Monday afternoon, arriving with clear skies and cool temps. Tuesday and Wednesday were awesome, late fall climbing days.

On Tuesday, Andrew and I went out to Lost City to do some bouldering. We did some fun problems near the Air Jordan boulder, from V0 to V5 including a really fun 4 and 5 (I'm so bad with names -- I'll find out later). Then we went and tried The Path which was really hard, but Andrew got. After that we headed over to the left side and got on Death of a Salesman and Funny Killer, both of which were also hard but fun moves for sure.

Yesterday Margaret and I had noble intentions of heading out to Millbrook to enjoy a day in the sun on white rock. But once 10 a.m. rolled around we decided a day of cragging in the trapps wouldn't be so bad either. We started the day with V3, a super classic 5.7 that pulls a roof via some chimney moves. Then we headed over to Never Never Land, which is THE face climbing classic of the Gunks. I hadn't been on it in a long time and we suprised how tough it actually is. Not only that, it's pretty run out as well. That aside, awesome climbing. Then we top-roped Nevermore (5.10c) and J'accuse (5.10b), which were both crimpy and fun. J'accuse is a series of hand-foot match mantels with no real holds to pull up on. Pretty wild houdini climbing. We ended the day with Maria Direct (5.9+) first pitch. I little bouldering on a rope.

All in all perfect weather and fantastic climbing.

Enough's enough

Screw this, I'm going south.

Maybe Not Too Cold...

So yeah, it may be warm enough to climb. But if it's snowing, that's a whole 'nother ball game. Rich and I just drove out to Silver Lake and it was pretty white out there. And not "pretty" like an ocean sunset either. Booo. I mean I guess it is November 1st, but so what? I want to go climbing.

November 1st

Is it too cold to climb? I mean, it's 31° right now. It'll warm up, right?

Gunks.

Rich and I were down in the Gunks a few days ago, and we did some bouldering. Check it out.

Tiger Style

Mentos

Voodoo

Spike, the best boulder problem in the Gunks.

We also got on a rope. I led the Sting clean. Then we did a link-up of Graveyard Shift, Tough Shift and Star Action which was cool. And we also did Moonlight into Keep on Struttin' back into Moonlight (Keep on Moonlighting?). Much fun. After that we did Arrow. Awesome.

A quicky

Rich and I scurried up to the C Chimney Cliff today to take care of a project. We have been wanting to put in an approach pitch up to the overhanging hand/fist crack we've been calling Attack of the Flying Buddha. So today we did just that. Now there is a fixed anchor below the crack and this fixed anchor also sets you up for another awesome looking crack and corner system just to the left. We called the route Seeking Enlightenment and we're saying maybe 5.10c-ish. It's short -- pretty much exactly 50 feet -- but sweet. You climb up to a series of overlaps and a cow's mouth style roof. Once you pull the roof it's over. Very much fun indeed.

New Routes

I've been a bad blogger.

But the long and short of it is two new routes at Never Never Land Cliff called Always 5.8+ 60' and Happy Thoughts and Chalk Dust 5.10d 75'. Also, one new route at Water Works in the Gunks called Faulty Plumbing 5.10 85'.

Going up to the C Chimney for another new one...let's hope.

Busy busy

The week from October 4th to October the 10th I worked 54 hours. Despite this, me and the crew have managed to do quite a bit of work up there at the C Chimney cliff. We added another 190 foot route called Haroom Baroom. We added an alternative last pitch to Hippie Sticks and Black Flies called Jenga, and put in some anchors here and there, and finally we have two other routes ready to be equipped and climbed.

Matt and I originally checked out Haroom Baroom based on the photo alone. We noticed a tree island at the top of the cliff, with what looked like several options below. We slapped an anchor around a tree and went down. What we found was the typical C Chimney-top-of-the-cliff-crack. What looks to be splitter from afar is actually a shallow, flared, crystalloid, water groove. These cracks (like the top of Hippie Sticks and Jenga) have tricky gear that is fairly spaced out. The cliff is generally slightly slabby with sparse feet other than the crack itself.

So anyways, we ended up lowering down about 110 feet or so and climbing to the top. Good enough climbing to inspire us to come back for more. What was more, the line wasn't that dirty, relatively speaking. When we did come back we did some fine-tuning of the equipment and also did some scrubbing. The result was a 5 star 190 foot 5.11c/d (height dependent). After one more day of work, Matt freed the first pitch and I nabbed the second pitch. Someone should definitely link the pitches.

Since the first time we wandered up to the C Chimney Cliff we've noticed this spectacular looking hand crack at the very apex of the cliff. With intentions of climbing that, we set up an anchor and lowered down.

We found a crack that starts 20 feet off a ledge. So, after we put in an anchor and did some scrubbing and equipping, we put our friend Forest on the sharp end. Turns out the route is tricky. Super balancey, awful jams and locks, bad feet -- nothing but pure fun. No one has freed the route yet (despite three people trying it), but it will probably go at like 5.11?

Don't forget to check out Jim and Jeremy's website for specific route information and topo's: http://adirondackrock.com/silverlake/silver%20lake%20routes.htm

Here are a few more photos from Jenga:

So that is our C Chimney fun. Someone should go climb Jenga. It's a cool route. So is Haroom Baroom. (Sorry about the lack of photos on Haroom.)

Silver Lake

Well...

It has been the same old story really. Too much work, not enough time for climbing. But hey, why not find some time to squeeze in an FA here and there. Matt and Rich have actually had better schedules than I've had and have had more time to climb.

They went up to Potter and put up a new route to the left of Jim's Route, The Three B's. Matt led, ground up, a 5.8 R/X up a beautifully clean and textured slab. The report is that the climbing is really great. We are debating whether to equip it, or to leave it as a 5.8 for the 5.10 climber.

The day after that, Rich and Matt and I went out towards the C Chimney. Colin hadn't been out there in life 5 years, so we gave him the tour of the "new and improved" C Chimney Cliff. Then we headed over to the next cliff over and did this...

It ended up being a 5.10 off-width that we called Blockus. It is probably one of the more crazy features I've come across. There is a huge tractor trailer sized block that is resting against the cliff (think last pitch of Fastest Gun). It seems solid, but it's definitely spooky climbing on the thing.

Matt and I had to go to work after that, but Colin and Rich stayed and climbed a new line called Hammerhead, 5.10d. All you need to really say about that climb is "it's a perfect Adirondack crack." Colin led it ground up, totally styling it, from what I've been told.

My one day off this week is today. Maybe the weather will turn out to be nice?

Spider's Web

Spent the morning yesterday at Spider's Web. I took some photos. Rich on Esthesia (5.10a) and Matt on It's Only Entertainment (5.11d).

Some Oldies and a Couple New...All Goodies

High Exposure in the Gunks

Climbing in the Todra Gorge, Morocco

Matt Climbing on the Star Action in the Gunks

Me leading the fourth pitch of Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rocks

A new climb at Silver Lake

5.11+ish??

Things to Get Excited About...

• Sending Temps
• Newly Equipped Sport Routes
• Newly Rekindled Projects From Last Year
• Telling Time With a New Watch
• Climbing in the Gunks
• Climbing Several Days a Week
• Sending Temps


Stay tuned for a more detailed update...

Deadwater

So, I'm still working crazy hours. Many doubles and only a day or two off a week. But, I did find some time to get out to climb on Friday. I worked breakfast that morning and didn't have to work dinner. I met up with Alex and his girlfriend Phoebe and we headed out to Deadwater.

Deadwater is a pretty cool crag. It's out near Route 87 just east of exit 30. Getting out of the car and looking around, you wouldn't think that tucked just behind some trees is a 100 foot tall cliff. But, after an easy, almost entirely flat 15 minute stroll through the woods, you come upon a neat little wall. It's not, however a promontory as the name might suggest, as there is no actual water around. But for such a short approach the setting is serene and the climbing is great. What's more, the cliff was set up as a (once) secret local guiding spot, making it really easy to lower, top-rope, and just to climb in general.

We started out by doing the Variation to Geronimo (5.9). You start by climbing an offwidth (protected by bolts). Then you up to a roof with a hand crack through it. Climb that and the rest is yours! Very fun climbing indeed. I led it, then Alex did it, the Phoebe almost did it. Personally, I thought the roof was pretty tough.

After that, I Alex and I totally got spanked on Crazyhorse (5.12a), which is a mostly bolted line just to the right of where we were. It pulls three roofs, two of which are cruxes. Alex pulled the first one, and I couldn't even get established above the first roof. It was a slightly frustrating experience, given that I'd climbed the route (with some falls, of course) last year. I guess I'm out shape.

We wrapped it up by climbing Space Cowboy (5.7). It's a dang good route that follows a corner system and ends with an airy traverse. Phoebe like it so much, she climbed it twice!

I'm hoping soon that we can get out for some more climbing more frequently. There are some hard projects that are going to take some serious work if they are going to go down.

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