Steppin it up a notch

AFTER the success Matt and I had on P38, Matt was inspired to try out a 5.9 So, what else should we do but get on Directissima and High Exposure.

Directissima is a 5.9 PG, with awesome awesome awesome climbing. It kind of wanders, and goes around a few corners, so it is broken up into 4 pitches -- the last pitch being High E. Matt led the first three, and I led High E.

Matt climbed up the first pitch, which is about 50 feet. There are some nice finger cracks and a small roof, which all had fun moves. The second pitch is a real delicate traverse with sparse feet. This is the 5.9 pitch and Matt had fun leading it. He got a ways out on the traverse and put in a .75, clipped real quick and had me take. That was pretty exciting to have to weight some gear. Guess what?! It works! He got through the traverse and started up the crack where the crux is. There are two fixed pins there, but they are old and a little sketchy. He got almost through the crux and had me take again. The climb was probably one of the most pumpy we've done so far (yay getting strong). After a brief rest, he pulled the crux and set up an anchor. I seconded it clean, but certainly had to be very deliberate with my feet! Great pitch.

The next pitch is a stellar arete climb that goes at 5.6. Fun moves and great exposure.

Then comes High E. High Exposure is THE MOST classic climb in the gunks. The move up over the roof is an awesome blind reach, and all the gear is there. Unbelievable climb. I led it ok, but was certainly very tenuous going over the roof. After that it was smooth sailing with fun, exposed climbing. Wooo-hooo!