Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Kentucky -- the round-up

Kentucky was the sickness. So so so so much fun to sport climb. It's amazing how much harder you can climb with bolts below you. My focus was so much more on the movement on the rock as opposed to the line as a whole. That is to say, sport climbing felt more like bouldering than trad climbing Clipping the bolt was only a minor part of the climb on the whole. In trad climbing, protection is everything. If you aren't in the process of placing gear, and thinking about a particular placement, you are getting ready for the next one, or maybe thinking about how good the last one is. Trad is about placing gear, and climbing in between placements -- sport is about climbing, and clipping bolts periodically. That said, had a lot of fun. Here is a list of the crags and climbs I did (or at least got up). A starred climb indicates I did it clean -- no takes, no falls.

Monday afternoon

Roadside crag:
Trouble Clef (5.9-) *
Ro Shampo (5.12a)

Tuesday

Tectonic and Johnny's Walls:
Plate Tectonics (5.9+) *
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b) *
Spinner (5.10b) *
Mancala (5.10a) *
The Great Wall
Mamma Cindy (5.11c) *
The Solarium
Manifest Destiny (5.12a)
Air-ride Equipped (5.11a) *

Wednesday

Raaaaiiiiinnnnnnn
(Tried Recoil (5.11d) at Torrent in the late afternoon)

Thursday

Torrent Falls
Wadcutter (5.9+) *
Bandolier (5.11a)
Recoil (5.11d) *

Military Wall
Jungle Beat (5.9+) * [Trad climb; two pitches]

Friday

Funk Rock City
Rite of Passage (5.9+) * [Trad climb]
Eye of the Needle (5.11b) *
Go Easy Billy Clyde (5.12a)
Cruising Lane (5.10a) * [Tope rop]

2 comments:

kate and pam said...

headyyyy

call me soon husband.

Starkad said...

i'm jealous, not that i could've climbed much other than the 5.9.