Thursday, September 24, 2009

Poke-o-moonshine

Colin and I went to Poko today for a few pitches of climbing. The sun is back, and the rock is dry! We were able to put away three excellent pitches -- three five-star climbs.

We left here around 9 o'clock this morning and went straight to the crag. Once there, we headed straight to C-Tips to "warm up." C-Tips, which goes at 5.10c goes straight up a blank, black water-streaked wall. The climbing is tenuous. Very balancey, with quite a few small holds. The route definitely requires a fair amount of footwork. Colin had climbed it many time, so he gave me the lead. It went down no problem.

Next we went to try one of Colin's long-term projects. This route, God's Grace (5.11b), goes up a wild corner, out to a sharp arete, then back to the corner again. It requires, again, really precise footwork. Lots of stemming, and pulling on tiny crimps. Colin had tried it last week and almost sent. Today, he crushed it. I followed cleanly, gave him serious props, and then we moved to climbs over to another classic corner climb.

Karmic Kickback (5.11b) is similar to God's Grace. Stemming up a corner, smearing, crimping, sharp aretes -- simply awesome. Colin gave me the lead. I struggled slightly at the crux, but other than that enjoyed the climbing to the maximum.

Just talked to Rich, I think we are going to go to Beaver Brook for a quick evening session. Yeheah.

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