Wednesday, June 23, 2010

The past few days

Like I said, I went to Silver Lake the other day. Rich and I went to work on Abracadabra. We've gotten three pitches up so far and it goes at A2+ so far, but it's likely that the first pitch will be somewhere in the hard 5.11 to easy 5.12 range, second pitch 5.11 and third pitch 5.10. And for the last pitch there are at least three options. Rich and I hiked straight to the top of the cliff and lowered down on toprope to inspect.

We cleaned one option, which follows a pretty cool crack after some lower angle stuff. Right in the middle of the pitch, the crack completely disappears, and there is a V4 boulder move that I wasn't really able to unlock at all. There are two sinker finger jams without any real feet to speak of. Then the next real hold is like 5 or 6 feet away. The gear would be really good at that point, but the move is balls hard, unlike the rest of the pitch.

Then we checked out another option to the left, which seems to be a more consistent climb, both in terms of the pitch itself being sustained, and also with the climb itself...I think it will go in the 5.11 range.

Can't wait to get back up there and do some more scrubbing and scoping. There is still another pitch we didn't even look at!

Other than that, I've been to Beaver Brook twice and work too many times to think about.

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