A couple of weeks ago Margaret and I found an unclimbed line that turned out to be as classic as they come. I worked a little bit on it with Andrew and he snagged the first ascent. I followed suite a few days later with quick repeats by BC and Matt as well. The problem itself is steep and perfectly tall. It starts sitting on a jug. You paste a foot and then heel hook. Move up to a side-pull and cruise through some awesome grippers and after that comes the meat -- a long move to an ok hold followed by high feet high off the ground. Bump to a small intermediate nothing-crimp and pop to an ok hold. Breathe in, and top out. Yum. Here is the vid:
I had also spent a day working on the moves to the Boxcar Arete, (which was the same day Bismark Direct went down) which is a classic Carriage Road v8. I didn't expect much in the way of actually doing it, but the first day I worked on it I made pretty good progress. So, with that in mind, I set out to climb the thing. Yesterday Margaret and I got out for an afternoon session and I fell off the top twice! I went back today and brushed-it-and-crushed-it. Yum.
And finally, in the excitement of new Carriage Road boulder problems, Andy and I went out to look for more. We found one. It's pretty sweet. I went out there today after climbing the Boxcar to put some chalk on it and try some of the moves. First move is a campus. That's all I know...Here's what it looks like:
I think I'm going to try and head back out tomorrow to try it again. It's pretty YUMMY.
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