Modern Times and Bonnie's Roof

TODAY we did two ultra classic climbs. Modern Times goes at 5.8+ and Bonnie's is a 5.9. Luckily for me, they both have a 5.7 pitches, so I got to lead a pitch in both climbs.

Modern Times has this facey start, and goes way up to the GT ledge, pulling a roof for it's crux. The entire pitch is like 150 feet, and the crux is right near the top of the pitch. I had the crux move protected with a marginal .3 BD cam, which I wasn't too excited about -- pulled the move no problem though. Pitch two was super exciting. It's somewhat of a one move wonder, and many would argue that it is really sandbagged. Matt led it though, and did a pretty good job -- although I think he could do it much smoother with the beta he has now. I followed it and got two bomber knee-bars up in the huge roofy section.

Looking at Bonnie's Roof from the ground is really intimidating. You look up and see, for 130 feet, these awesome stacked/tiered roofs. It works up this nice crack that follows the roofs up. Matt led the 5.9 pitch, and his second, third and fourth pieces of pro were the #13, #12, and #11 nuts. Super cool. Other than dropping some gear, he did a great job on the 9 pitch.

The second pitch was fun too. It traverses out to an arete, and then pulls up to the top. On the traverse there are all sorts of loose rocks and flakes, and it's super exposed with real delicate hands (all the feet are there). Very exciting climb with nothing below you for a long, long way.