Sending 10a!!

MARC and I climbed yesterday, as Matt had to work the morning and afternoon shifts. The cliff was fairly crowded, so we went over to the nears and did some climbs.

First, we jumped on a climb called Broken Sling, which goes at 5.8. Marc lead the first pitch, and the start is real burly. This climb was put up back when 5.8 actually meant something, and I'd say the start is much harder than 5.8. I led the second pitch, which was super awesome too. I didn't have my guide book, and so I didn't really have a pitch description, so I kinda just went straight up through some big roofs. I looked at the guide book when I got home, and I'm pretty sure I did the 5.9+ variation, maybe even the 5.10 variation. I'm not too sure -- I'll have to take Matt back and check it out to see what I did. It certainly was not the 5.8 pitch.

I was feeling really good and strong after that lead, and Marc pointed out a 5.10 climb just next to Broken Sling. It's called Criss Cross Direct. Short and sweet, good and hard. It starts in with this overhang with a crack through it, so it involves some hand jams and some high feet. It was so freakin' hot and humid out, that I almost greased off at the crux (which is like the first 4 or 5 moves, well protected though). Right when I thought I was coming off, I went for the big "thank-God-hold" and pulled over the crux. Woohoo. After that there are some reaches, and a nice pinch move too. Good stuff.

It was totally casual and unexpected that I was going to lead a 10 on Friday, but it just kind of happened. It feels good to have lead it. I think though, that I'll probably stick to mostly the 5.9 range for now, maybe dabbling with a few more 10s -- we'll see.