Kentucky was the sickness. So so so so much fun to sport climb. It's amazing how much harder you can climb with bolts below you. My focus was so much more on the movement on the rock as opposed to the line as a whole. That is to say, sport climbing felt more like bouldering than trad climbing Clipping the bolt was only a minor part of the climb on the whole. In trad climbing, protection is everything. If you aren't in the process of placing gear, and thinking about a particular placement, you are getting ready for the next one, or maybe thinking about how good the last one is. Trad is about placing gear, and climbing in between placements -- sport is about climbing, and clipping bolts periodically. That said, had a lot of fun. Here is a list of the crags and climbs I did (or at least got up). A starred climb indicates I did it clean -- no takes, no falls.
Monday afternoon
Roadside crag:
Trouble Clef (5.9-) *
Ro Shampo (5.12a)
Tuesday
Tectonic and Johnny's Walls:
Plate Tectonics (5.9+) *
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b) *
Spinner (5.10b) *
Mancala (5.10a) *
The Great Wall
Mamma Cindy (5.11c) *
The Solarium
Manifest Destiny (5.12a)
Air-ride Equipped (5.11a) *
Wednesday
Raaaaiiiiinnnnnnn
(Tried Recoil (5.11d) at Torrent in the late afternoon)
Thursday
Torrent Falls
Wadcutter (5.9+) *
Bandolier (5.11a)
Recoil (5.11d) *
Military Wall
Jungle Beat (5.9+) * [Trad climb; two pitches]
Friday
Funk Rock City
Rite of Passage (5.9+) * [Trad climb]
Eye of the Needle (5.11b) *
Go Easy Billy Clyde (5.12a)
Cruising Lane (5.10a) * [Tope rop]
Taos, the land of the Earthship...
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After leaving Sarah and Dan in Albuquerque, we headed north, following the
Rio Grande, to Taos. Our primary motivation for stopping in Taos was to
visit t...
2 comments:
headyyyy
call me soon husband.
i'm jealous, not that i could've climbed much other than the 5.9.
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