A Return to the Gunks

I decided to do my American Mountain Guide's Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) course. Taking the SPI course enables one to professionally guide clients at the single pitch level. Plus, it will also teach me some things about rescuing that I don't know, but that Rich and Matt do both know.

So I came up a day early. Wouldn't you?

The weather yesterday was awesome. Probably like 60 degrees, sunny (but not oppressive), and the rock here is still beautiful. We went straight to Smiling the Hard Way which is right next to CCK. It goes at 5.11c, with a 10b/c R before the crux. Definitely a very committing lead up beautifully clean sparkling white rock.

I handled the lower roof crux no problem, only hesitating for a moment. After you get past that section there is a wonderful little horizontal with a great rest. I plugged in three cams for a little 'nest of courage,' and rested for a while, sussing out the next moves. As far as I could see, there were no holds to speak of (I later confirmed this), so I figured it must be a feet thing. I did the old hand-foot-match, stood up using tiny dime edge crimps, and was now totally committed, with the gear at my feet.

And then Devin told me I was too far left. I was in the nevernever world of 'oh shit!' Other than once decent left hand, there wasn't really anything to hold on to. I tried smearing and laybacking, desperately trying to reach the horizontal that was juuuuust out of reach. And then the smear started to un-smear...slid...POP. I was off.

Luckily, when you fall, things slow down a bit. I had time to think several thoughts. First I thought, "Oh great, this is gonna be big." Then I thought, "Oh great, the rope is behind my leg." And then, "I'm turning upside down. It's cool to be parallel to the ground." And finally, "Here comes the cliff, better put my hands out."

All that in a fraction of a second. I ended up being completely upside down thanks to that rope-behind-the-leg thing. Luckily I didn't smack my dome on the rock. A few minor scrapes, and a little soreness in the fingers from catching myself, but other than that, unscathed.

We spent the rest of the day doing some more relaxed climbing. Devin tried to lead back up and fininsh the route after that, but took several falls. Then I went back up and bailed on CCK, which I'm not ashamed of in the slightest. After that we climbed Falled on Account of Strain and did some bouldering. I finished on the Buddha which I'm glad to see I can still do.

And now it's raining again (damnit) but the SPI course runs regardless. Should be ok methinks.

(pictures to come tonight from Smiling...)