So, Rich and I did a new climb yesterday. We're calling it Zoinks!! It's about 170 feet long, two pitches (70ft, 100ft) first pitch somewhere near 5.10d/11a second pitch somewhere near 5.11b/c. It was mostly clean till the top. We ground up led the thing. I fell at the crux on the first pitch, and did a combination of french-freeing and free climbing on the second pitch. It got real grimy at the top, so I would scrub the feet and hands for a move, do the move, repeat.
The first pitch follows a tight right-facing corner with a thin crack in it. Follow this up to a stance (50 feet), then up the left side of two inside facing corners. We found some old tat on the right side of the corners. At the top of the corners, build a belay. Second pitch moves up and slightly right into an awesome under-cling and then up a nice finger crack. Gulp down some Scooby Snacks, and start pulling through the roofs on small crimps and side pulls. Savor the good holds. Do another sick under-cling move. Pull up through the last roof and take advantage of the crack on the face as well as the one in the corner. Up the top through some 5.6R stuff, and enjoy the view! Can't wait to go back and get this thing cleaned up.
6 comments:
damn. that looks rad
i bet the arete to the right goes.
Dude, there are so many pitches there.
i'm driving up to denver in about a week, to be there for the summer. i may get some time off in august, and i'd like to get up to see you all, but we'll see. keep it up son, hows the amga resume looking?
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-Tom Wright
Yes sir. That is correct.
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