We warmed up on On the Loose (5.10a). I led it and was feeling sluggish and awkward, so after Matt followed it, he gave Romano's Route (5.11c) a first lead. The bottom section is really hard. We both decided later that Romano's seems a lot harder than both Fear and Loathing (5.11b) and Drop, Die or Fly (5.11a). Matt got right up to the end of the crux section and popped off, taking a nice little whip. He was feeling super pumped, so he handed the lead over to me.
Luckily for me the gear was pre-placed through the entire start/crux section. I was able to clip and sprint right through all the pumpy-ness (well, maybe not all of it), and made it to the rest fairly easily. The only thing left was 50 feet of pumpy overhanging thin hands and fingers to the chains. Not wanting to blow it, I slowly and methodically moved up the wall...and made it to the chains!
Thanks Matt for placing the gear.
3 comments:
the first bit of romanos looked uber bouldery when i went up there.... white knight.... if any of you haven't yet done overture on upper washbowl i recommend it highly. the last pitch is the most exposed i climbed in the 'daks and just plain wild for 8ish, i would love to hear what you all think of it, that is a truly superb crag.
sounds fun, keep it up!
White Knight is coming soon. I want to get on It's Only Entertainment (11d) first. But yeah, the beginning is totally a boulder problem to a good rest and then sustained 5.10 crack climbing.
Wasbowl is still closed for birdies right now but I think you are like the 32432nd person to recommend that route. It looks pretty cool from the road. I'm psyched to get on it.
good luck on entertainment, gotta love the rising fingers
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