Some more photos

%@$()*&!!!!!!

And then it snowed. :(

The Raging Raven

Went over to Pitchoff today to do some climbing. Matt and I had a bit of time between errands, so we grabbed a rope and some quickdraws and headed out. There is a climb there called the Raging Raven and it goes at 5.11b. It's all bolts, steep climbing, small holds, or long moves between good holds. Also, sustained and in your face most of the way. Very much fun. After I onsighted it, Matt and I proceeded to do some laps. I did nine, and fell once on eight and nine.

That's a pretty good workout.

Back in Wilmington

So lets see here...I left my parents house on Thursday and drove to New Paltz to do some climbing with Margaret. We ended up going to this new-ish place at Bonticou called Northeast. Did a sweet problem called Megan Fox (V5), and then checked out this place with a huuuuuge roof. Like way cool. Worked on some stuff in there for a while (it's all pretty hard), and then called it a day.

Woke up Friday morning and drove North. Matt and Rich and our buddy Mark were all climbing at Potter Mountain, so I drove straight there and met them up at the cliff. With Mark I climbed Garden of Leadin' (5.10b) and Piece Out (5.10b). Both really really good...I think Piece Out might be one of my favs up there at Shangri La.

Yesterday we did a little bit of climbing with Katie Craig up at the Center of Progress cliff. Matt tried to get Rock Hangers clean, and was super close. Then we went over to the Princess Leah area, and did a couple of those routes, which are always fun.

After that we came back to the house for some lunch and then headed over to Beaver Brook for some climbing. I did Good to the Last Drop (5.10d), which is awesome and then Rich set up the top-rope on the currently un-bolted project over there. What a sick line, holy crap. Can't wait to get to work on that thing for real. Anyone got any bolts/drill?

The start of a trip report.

First the facts.

1. Alabama is sweet.
2. Kentucky is sweet.
3. Rock climbing is sweet.

Ok, glad we got that out of the way. I want to give a full trip report but I can't because I don't have the HP-40 guidebook and I can't remember all the climbs we tried. And I'd like to be as thorough as I can, for thoroughness's sake. But what I can do is give you the time-line of events. Here we go:

Monday, April 5: Last day of work; started packing for the trip.
Tuesday, April 6: Finished packing; drove to New Paltz.
Wednesday, April 7: Start of the perfect weather; climbed in New Paltz; enjoyed a barbecue.
Thursday, April 8: Rich and I drive to Alabama in around 17 hours.
Friday, April 9: Bouldering; learn the proper usages of "y'all."
Saturday, April 10: Still perfect weather; bouldering until 4 o'clock; drive to Kentucky on curvy roads.
Sunday, April 11: Climbing in Muir Valley; randomly found Al, just after he sent Iniquity; Matt and Margaret arrive at night.
Monday, April 12: Curbside with Al and Jimmy, Matt, Margaret, Rich and me; sight-seeing at the Motherlode.
Tuesday, April 13: Back to Muir; perfect weather still; everyone crushes.
Wednesday, April 14: Last day of perfect weather; Long Wall; pack up; drive to Columbus Ohio.
Thursday, April 15: No more rock trip.

Okay, so...Kentucky first.

OMG. Like seriously, OMG. Kentucky is way too much fun. Like, might not be able to have more fun anywhere at any time. Ever. Did I mention that the Red River Gorge is cool. I think so, at least.

Let my first start with a list of climbs. I'll let you know how I climbed each route -- that is, whether I on-sighted it (OS), top-roped it (TR), hang dogged it (HD), didn't finish it but got got to x bolt (DNF4). I'm including a 'flash' as an on-sight...if YOU'D rather, YOU can call it he got it on his first try -- I don't want to get into the subtleties right now.

Anyway, here is a list of climbs that I did:

• 5th Bolt Faith 5.10c OS
• Plate Tectonics 5.9+ OS
• Thrillbillies 5.10b OS
• Sacred Stone 5.11c DNF3 <---way hard slab climb
• Bitter Ray of Sunshine 5.10c OS
• Single Finger Salute 5.10c OS
• Conscription 5.11c OS <--- cool crux, pumpy finish.
• Avalanche Run 5.12a HD <--- only hanged once, jug tuggin'.
• Action Over Apathy 5.10b HD <---really...10b? more like 11d...
• Dynabolt Gold 5.10a OS
• Air-Ride Equipped 5.11a OS <--- did it two years ago...still awesome.
• Super Best Friends 5.12b DNF8 <---OMG. 'nough said. Wait, no, not enough said. OMG.
• Battery Life 5.11b HD
• Lip Service 5.11c OS <---hahaha lip service...hahah...if only you knew...hahaha. It's sweet.
• The Gift 5.12a DNF7 <--- perhaps the best climb I've ever been on.
• Autumn 5.9- TR <--- wicked trad line.

Now, if you wait just one hot second I will give you a more detailed report. I know your salivating, so just hold on and I'll give you what you want.

KY -- Day 1

HP-40

...and I was only there for two hours. Yay. Now it's time to do some life organization. And then go climbing.

LAST DAY OF WORK!!! YAY!!!

The heat is on.

So, crazy temps right now. Today it was 80 degrees. And sunny. Yesterday was pretty similar. And so the climbing season seems to be jump starting quite nicely. I guess my request for in like a lion out like a lamb was granted.

And because of all this nice weather we've been able to get out climbing the past few days. Wednesday it was still pretty moist outside. The clouds didn't really lift until like 6:30 at night. But Thursday and Friday were great! (I called in to work on Friday....oops.) Thursday we went out to Deadwater and did some climbing with a bunch of friends. Pete and Katie Q. were here, as well as a New Paltz contingency. All in all there were seven of us climbing. Super fun routes there for sure.

And then yesterday we went up to Potter. This time it was Pete and Katie, Rich and Me, and Nyssa and Amanda. Did some fuuuuun climbing, including this 5.10a called Piece Out. What an outstanding pitch of climbing. Holy crap it's good. Perfect holds for climbing on, exciting the entire way. Woohoo.

Soon I will be laid off, and soon I will be in Kentucky.